Belonging Speech
I leap onto the hot, dry sand as it screeches under my burning feet, bolting with speed down to the water, so eager. The surfboard feeling heavy under my arm after trekking from home in the scorching summer’s heat. I dive in and it actually feels like heaven, exhilarating, yet I have never felt so alive. I paddle over a clean 3 foot wave rolling in and over towards my anxiously waiting mates, anticipating the next sets to come through. I finally get out the back of the waves and sit up on my board next to an old veteran male surfer, with a long grey beard, tanned and wrinkled skin like leather. We started chatting about our love of surfing. Our conversation went from how long he has been out for to his greatest surfing experience and just how much it all means to him. This is what it’s all about to me, not only the physical pleasures, but the fact that you belong to and relate to surfing culture. No matter who it is, your gender or age, surfing becomes a common bond.
I look around in awe at the lively natural surroundings that we all take for granted and really appreciate the lifestyle I am lucky enough to lead. As I gaze at the endless horizon across the calming waters with squinted eyes, I notice a pod of dolphins rise to the surface of an incoming wave, riding across almost as if they have been watching us surfers and decided to give it a shot themselves. The reality of being able to share these unforgettable moments with such beautiful creatures, within their environmental habitat is completely overwhelming to me, adding to this unique way of life. Wave after wave, all of the surfers embrace and enjoy the common luxury of what the ocean has to offer. A chilled atmosphere laced with the constant cheers of approbation and praise from not just ones friends, but people unknown to them. Through this, a harmonic and unique community is created, to which we all know as surfers, that we belong.
There is nothing else in the world that presents the sensation of
I look around in awe at the lively natural surroundings that we all take for granted and really appreciate the lifestyle I am lucky enough to lead. As I gaze at the endless horizon across the calming waters with squinted eyes, I notice a pod of dolphins rise to the surface of an incoming wave, riding across almost as if they have been watching us surfers and decided to give it a shot themselves. The reality of being able to share these unforgettable moments with such beautiful creatures, within their environmental habitat is completely overwhelming to me, adding to this unique way of life. Wave after wave, all of the surfers embrace and enjoy the common luxury of what the ocean has to offer. A chilled atmosphere laced with the constant cheers of approbation and praise from not just ones friends, but people unknown to them. Through this, a harmonic and unique community is created, to which we all know as surfers, that we belong.
There is nothing else in the world that presents the sensation of