The fashion business
The Fashion Business
This page intentionally left blank
The Fashion
Business
Theory, Practice, Image
Edited by
Nicola White and Ian Griffiths
Oxford • New York
First published in 2000 by
Berg
Editorial offices:
150 Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 1JJ, UK
838 Broadway, Third Floor, New York, NY 10003-4812, USA
© Nicola White and Ian Griffiths 2000
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg.
Berg is an imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 1 85973 354 9 (Cloth)
1 85973 359 X (Paper)
Typeset by JS Typesetting, Wellingborough, Northants.
Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, Guildford and King’s Lynn.
Contents
Notes on Contributors
vii
List of Figures
xi
Introduction: The Fashion Business Theory, Practice, Image
Nicola White and Ian Griffiths
1
Part 1 Context
1
Fashion:Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow
Valerie Steele
7
Part 2 Theory and Culture
2
Cultures, Identities, Histories: Fashioning a Cultural
Approach to Dress
Christopher Breward
23
3
Fashion and Glamour
Réka C.V. Buckley and Stephen Gundle
37
4
Ethnic Minimalism: A Strand of 1990s British Fashion
Identity Explored via a Contextual Analysis of Designs by Shirin Guild
Amy de la Haye
55
Part 3 Design for Industry
5
The Invisible Man
Ian Griffiths
69
6
Connecting Creativity
Luigi Maramotti
91
7
The Chain Store Challenge
Brian Godbold
103
Contents
Part 4 Image and Marketing
8
The Hilfiger Factor and the Flexible Commercial
World of Couture
Lou Taylor
121
9
John Galliano: Modernity and Spectacle
This page intentionally left blank
The Fashion
Business
Theory, Practice, Image
Edited by
Nicola White and Ian Griffiths
Oxford • New York
First published in 2000 by
Berg
Editorial offices:
150 Cowley Road, Oxford OX4 1JJ, UK
838 Broadway, Third Floor, New York, NY 10003-4812, USA
© Nicola White and Ian Griffiths 2000
All rights reserved.
No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form or by any means without the written permission of Berg.
Berg is an imprint of Oxford International Publishers Ltd.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
ISBN 1 85973 354 9 (Cloth)
1 85973 359 X (Paper)
Typeset by JS Typesetting, Wellingborough, Northants.
Printed in the United Kingdom by Biddles Ltd, Guildford and King’s Lynn.
Contents
Notes on Contributors
vii
List of Figures
xi
Introduction: The Fashion Business Theory, Practice, Image
Nicola White and Ian Griffiths
1
Part 1 Context
1
Fashion:Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow
Valerie Steele
7
Part 2 Theory and Culture
2
Cultures, Identities, Histories: Fashioning a Cultural
Approach to Dress
Christopher Breward
23
3
Fashion and Glamour
Réka C.V. Buckley and Stephen Gundle
37
4
Ethnic Minimalism: A Strand of 1990s British Fashion
Identity Explored via a Contextual Analysis of Designs by Shirin Guild
Amy de la Haye
55
Part 3 Design for Industry
5
The Invisible Man
Ian Griffiths
69
6
Connecting Creativity
Luigi Maramotti
91
7
The Chain Store Challenge
Brian Godbold
103
Contents
Part 4 Image and Marketing
8
The Hilfiger Factor and the Flexible Commercial
World of Couture
Lou Taylor
121
9
John Galliano: Modernity and Spectacle
References: in this article are to the paperback edition, 1991, pp. 47. Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago, 1985. See too Wilson, Elizabeth, The Sphinx in the City: Urban Life, the Control of Disorder, and Women, London, Virago, 1991, which, like this paper, uses Walter Benjamin to connect the 48. Wilson, Elizabeth, Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and Modernity, London: Virago, 1985, p Other Essays, London : trans. Jonathan Mayne, Phaidon Press, 1964, p. 12. 50. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, p 51. Foster, Hal, The Return of the Real: the Avant-Garde at the End of the Century, Cambridge Mass & London England: MIT Press, 1996, pp 52. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, argues that postmodernism is a continuation of modernity, 53. For a discussion of the effect of new technologies on sensibilities and social practice see Antony Giddens, Antony, Reith Lectures, London: BBC Publications, 1999. 54. Featherstone, Mike, Consumer Culture and Postmodernism, Thousand Oaks, New Delhi: Sage Publications, London, 1991, p